1/32 Hurricane Correction Set




Correction Set Part Overview


Canopy Rails/Dog Kennel

The plywood area behind the pilots head (known as the “dog kennel”)  should be removed from the kit, the replacement resin part with the canopy rails needs to be test fitted into each fuselage half at this time but not glued in place until the fuselage halves have been assembled. The kit does not show the canopy rails very well, the resin part corrects this as well as creating the distinctly sharp change from the ply area to the fabric covered part of the spine. 

























An

other thing that this part corrects is the run of the canopy rails. If you were to look dow

n from directly above on the real aircraft, you would see that the canopy rails are not parallel but start narrower at the front, they then become wider to approximately the back of the open part of the cockpit after which they go narrower again. The canopy was quite flexible and able to bend where needed. The resin part also has the front edges of the dog kennel chamfered, which was missed on the kit.

On the resin dog kennel a strip of material is left joining the front part of the canopy rails together, I would suggest that it is left in place until the canopy rails are glued into position, then removed with light strokes of a sharp blade run against the inside face of the rails.



The nose on the kit is a vast improvement over the Revell kit but has still not quite got the shape correct.

The kit nose is too rounded above the front of the exhaust cut out, this should go up vertically a little higher to make room for the Merlin on the real aircraft.

The nose replacement is quite straight forward, just follow the panel lines when cutting the old nose off.I would recommend that you leave a tiny amount of extra material on the fuselage, so you can file down to the panel lines while test fitting the new nose.

The nosehalves are best test fitted to each fuselage half before the halves are joined together. The plate with the propeller shaft can just be squeezed with a little jiggling into the hole at the front afterthe halves have been joined. Use the kit exhaust mountings onto the resin parts inside the nose.


Leading Edge to Wing Fairing

The leading edge to wing fairing for the underside is a straight forward, cut the old part to the panel lines and replace it with the resin part, just remember to test fit as you go along.

This part looks very similar to the kit part but if you look closely at the full-sized aircraft you will see that the panel is shaped to fit over a strengthening tube that ran from the bottom of the main spar forward at about 45 degrees to the engine mountings. The resin part reflect this.




Prop Info

I have not included the propeller with this correction set because I have made a Watts 2-blade and the Rotol 3-blade 10’ 9” blunt nosed Spitfire spinner types. You could also use the De Havilland 3-blade 10’ 8” prop included with the kit. If you choose to use this prop, it would be greatly improved if you could introduce some twist into the blades as they look wrong being so flat.

The Watts and Rotol props are available separately on this website.



Other Info

A huge number of changes and modifications were applied to the Hurricane during it’s first few months of service. These don’t seem to follow a fixed order or time so you could get a lot of different combinations of prop, exhaust, canopy and tail underside, just to name the more obvious changes. It’s  a case of checking references for the aircraft and date that you are building.

If building the fabric wing version, I have not seen a photo showing the oblong panel just aft of the cockpit on the starboard fuselage side, so this should be filled in.

If you look at the photo showing the starboard cockpit area you will see that I’ve filled it in on mine.

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